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Two hot-air balloons over a green valley below snow-capped peaks at Manali

Destination

Ladakh,through the high passes

The land of high passes, and thin, extraordinary air.

Ladakh is the part of India that looks like nowhere else in it. A high-altitude desert between the Himalaya and the Karakoram, where the villages are green squares in bare rock, the monasteries sit on the ridgelines, and Pangong Tso turns a blue that photographs badly because nobody believes it.

The classic route comes up from Manali by road, over the passes, with a night at Jispa on the way, then Leh, Nubra, and the lake.

Where you’ll go

Leh. The valley town that acclimatises you, with the Indus monasteries of Thiksey, Hemis and Alchi within reach.

Pangong Tso. A long lake at altitude, half of it in China, and the highlight of most people’s Ladakh.

Nubra Valley. White dunes, organic farms and double-humped Bactrian camels, over the Khardung La from Leh.

Manali and Jispa. The approach: snow peaks, the Beas valley, and the last village before the high road.

Practical notes

Draft: awaiting owner verification. Altitude is the real constraint here and the itinerary must respect it.

  • Leh sits well above 3,000 metres. Any honest Ladakh itinerary spends its first days acclimatising and doing very little. Ours do.
  • The Manali–Leh road is seasonal and closes with snow. Flying into Leh is the alternative, and changes the acclimatisation plan.
  • Inner-line permits are needed for Nubra and Pangong. We arrange them; the rules change, so we confirm current requirements when we quote.

At a glance

Practical facts

Plug & voltage
C/D/M
230V · 50Hz
Currency
INR
Indian rupee
Time zone
UTC+5:30
(IST), no DST, 2½ hours ahead of Nairobi
Driving side
Left
Languages
Ladakhi (Bhoti)
Hindi, English, Urdu, Purgi
SIM & data
Mobile data in Ladakh is hit-or-miss and the rules change without notice, and no SIM or eSIM, ours included, can be promised to work up here. Expect patchy signal outside Leh, check with your provider close to travel, and plan as if you'll be offline.
Tipping
Modest. Your driver carries the day on the high-passes route and your guide the rest of it; both are looked after at the end rather than daily.
Tap water
Bottled or boiled. At this altitude you will drink far more than you expect, so ask your hotel about refills rather than buying it by the case.

Comparing countries? The full table puts every destination we plan side by side, and when to go does the same for the months.

Getting there

The flights for this trip are ticketed at the same desk as the rest of it: 66 airlines, all ticketed in Nairobi, whatever the routing turns out to be. Ask for the fare when you ask for the trip, and one person holds both.

Why go

Ladakh in five lines

  1. Leh, and the monasteries of the Indus valley
  2. Pangong Tso, deep blue water at 4,200 metres
  3. Nubra Valley's white dunes and Bactrian camels
  4. Some of the highest driveable passes in the world
  5. Manali and Jispa on the road up

Plan your Ladakh journey

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