Abu Dhabi’s evening desert lies out along the road to Al Ain. The dunes of Al Khatim sit between the two cities, and the camps are at Al Khazna on the way. By the time the vehicle leaves the tarmac there is nothing on the horizon but sand.
The dune drive comes first, for those who want it. A 4x4, an experienced driver and soft sand taken at different speeds: on average about three-quarters of an hour of climbing and sliding, with seat belts on throughout. Some people come back grinning and some come back grey, and nobody can tell you in advance which you will be. If it is not for you, the rest of the menu is out there too: camels, sandboarding, quad bikes and henna.
Then the light goes. The sand turns from gold to rust as the sun drops, and the shadows stretch off every crest. Keep an eye on the flats as you drive. Camels, Arabian oryx, gazelles and desert foxes live out here, and there are more birds than you would think.
Camp is where the evening slows down. Arabic coffee and dates when you arrive, a camel for anyone who wants a slow circuit, henna for the hands, a show once it is dark, and then a traditional meal eaten under a sky with no city in it.
There are other versions. A morning run catches the sunrise over the same dunes and finishes with coffee at camp. An overnight camp trades the drive home for a night of stars. And Liwa, on the edge of the Empty Quarter two to three hours west, where the Tel Moreeb dune stands more than 300 metres high, is a different trip altogether: a full day at the very least, and better with a night.
Put the Louvre and the Saadiyat museums in the morning, indoors and cool, and give the desert the second half of the day.
Good to know
- Babies are not allowed on dune drives. Pregnant travellers and anyone with a medical condition should skip that part.
- Seat belts are compulsory for the whole of the dune drive.
- Winter nights in the desert are cool. Bring a light jacket.
- Operators set their own minimum ages for dune drives and quad bikes, and they differ. We confirm yours in writing.
- November to March is the comfortable season. In summer, the morning run is the kinder choice.
Which desert and camp an operator uses, pick-up points and times, what an evening includes, dune-driving practice, minimum ages, and charges for quad bikes, sandboarding or a night in camp are set by the operator and change. We confirm what applies to your dates in writing before you pay anything.
The drive is the loud part of the evening. Everything after it happens at walking pace.
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